Mode

Love looks not with the eyes

I september och oktober i år kom det inte mindre än tre böcker om Alexander McQueen. Och två av dem verkar vara sådana som går rakt till hjärtat.

I ”Love looks not with the eyes: thirteen years with Lee Alexander McQueen” får vi fyra hundra sidor bilder från Anne Deniau, den enda fotograf som fick följa med och fota nära inpå under Lee McQueens alla visningar. Eller i alla fall 26 av dem, från september 1997 (Givenchy-tiden) till den sista i oktober 2010. De två jobbade nära varandra och blev också väldigt nära vänner. Så det verkar vara en extremt personlig bok för Anne Deniau.

Så här berättar hon om boken och om Lee, i två olika intervjuer:

After Lee passed away there was this legend about his dark side, that he was a tortured man, that he had some macabre side, and that is absolutely not the man I knew. He had dark moments like any creative artist, great highs and downs, but apart from that he spread such light. He was very generous, he was faithful, a lovely person, he was very cheerful. I wanted to do something as close as possible to the man I knew. ” [TELEGRAPH]

 I started to think about the book in 2006, because it would have been ten years [since I started to shoot], and I decided to wait. I made the decision in September 2011. After Lee, um, disappeared, I couldn’t look at any images until October and November of last year. This is very difficult to say, because 2010 seems like yesterday. Sarah [Burton] asked me if I had a picture of her and Lee, so I had to reopen the boxes; it’s film, so I have boxes. I thought, if I’m not doing it now, I will never do it, because I knew it would be tough. It was full of joy, too, because it was full of souvenirs, and you remember everything, but it’s been the most painful thing I’ve ever had to do. I’m so happy for Lee that the book exists; I’m relieved.” [ELLE]

Den andra boken, ”Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy” är skriven av Judith Watt, chefslektor på modehistoriska institutionen på Central St Martins. Den verkar vara en detaljerad beskrivning av McQueens livsverk från tiden innan examen på Central St Martins fram till den sista ”Plato’s Atlantis”-kollektionen. De två böckerna verkar helt enkelt komplettera varandra perfekt.

Så här berättar hon för Fashionista.com:

It’s about his life but it’s not a biography. It’s about the importance of his work and the life behind his work. There’s stuff in this book that no one’s researched before, and photos and drawings no one has ever seen before.  He operates on lots of different levels–designer as artist, his genius of tailoring, his braveness of standing up and making your mark and having your own voice as a designer. He leaves a legacy of creating clothes that are about women being brave, standing their own ground, not being victims of men. …  I want people to get the scale of him, the scale of his ideas, and his great collaborations [with artists]–they were phenomenal. There are a handful of truly great British designers, and he’s one of them.”

Även om jag älskar Harold Kodas bok från The Met-utställningen, var det något som saknades, något av just den här kalibern – å ena sidan närgånget, å den andra kontextualiserat. Det har knappt gått tre år nu sedan McQueen dog, och hans ojämförbart briljanta modevision med honom, men den känns som en evighet. Kan inte vänta till jag får läsa de här två böckerna. Finns på Amazon för ca 300 respektive 130 kronor.

 Bilder: Anne Deniau / Love looks not with the eyes.

Agnes Grefberg Braunerhielm
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Agnes B

Agnes Grefberg Braunerhielm bloggar på rodeo.net om mode och är tillsammans med Elin Unnes chefredaktör för magasinet Rodeo.

Kontakta Agnes på: agnes@rodeo.net.

Editor-in-chief at Rodeo magazine. Contact: agnes@rodeo.net

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