Modevisningar

Reed Krakoff vår/sommar 2011

RACHEL DODES/WSJ: “A collection appealing to a woman who can’t possibly live without leather, even in the springtime.”

VOGUE.COM: “While he’s made a move in the right direction, as the label grows it will be exciting to see Krakoff incorporate more of his exquisite American taste into the mix.”

WWD: “Reed Krakoff improved on last season’s debut in the manner that the economy improved — which is to say, there’s still a ways to go.”

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_Agnes Braunerhielm

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2010.09.16 00:28

Theyskens’ Theory vår/sommar 2011

OLIVIER THEYSKENS TILL STYLE.COM “I had been looking for a more personal project, I’ve found it at Theory. It’s the right position in terms of quality, price.”

(Lisa: Jag gillar att han ville ta sig an andra änden av modespektrat efter Nina Ricci.)

STYLE.COM: “The look? Belgian, with lots of sharp, imaginative tailoring.”

INTERNATIONAL HERALD TRIBUNE: “The Theyskens’ Theory collection … has the same elements of romance and originality that he developed earlier.”

(Lisa: Jätteromantiskt är det kanske inte. Mer slouchy.)

NY TIMES: “The clothes, under the label Theyskens’ Theory, are remarkable because they reflect Mr. Theyskens’s signature drainpipe style, but also look like Theory’s urban wardrobe.”

THEORYS ANDREW ROSEN TILL WALL STREET JOURNAL: ““I think the one thing that maybe people don’t understand is the range that Olivier is capable of, I think that he was very much inspired by doing something more democratic.”

(Lisa: Theyskens är smartare än att använda en så smal modell, om ni frågar mig.)


_Lisa

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2010.09.15 17:51

Narciso Rodriguez vår/sommar 2011

WWD: “everything looked completely simple and demure — plain even. But it takes a close look to appreciate the designer’s ways with innovative construction”

(Karolina: Minimalism is all about the details)

VOGUE.COM/MARK HOLGATE: ” Rodriguez was thinking about a ten-year span that really meant something to him // that would be the nineties.

(Karolina: 90-talet, minimalismens guldålder)

THE NEW YORK TIMES/ ERIC WILSON: “The designer, when he took his bow, looked more confident than he has in some time”


_Karolina Skande

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2010.09.15 16:28

Rodarte vår/sommar 2011

LAURA MULLEAVY TILL WWD: ““We were looking at wood carvings and how they were coupled with porcelain.”

KATE MULLEAVY TILL VOGUE: ““We’ve been sending wood panels to Italy for the prints.”

(Lisa: Trycken/mönstren är så väl sammansatta!)

WWD: “They haven’t lost sight of the unconventional artsy-craftsy take that made fashion fall in love with them in the first place (…) each shape relatively straightforward and restrained (…) whipped up bold wood-panel prints and leaflike embroideries on tailored sportswear.”

VOGUE.COM: “They’d been thinking about Northern California (…) especially redwood trees, considering the historical and cultural links between that part of the west coast and Japan, and China.”

(Lisa: Kalifornien verkar ta en redig plats i modebilden till våren…)

VOGUE.COM: “The Mulleavys captured the decadent Seventies vibe that’s slowly insinuating itself into next spring, like faintly hearing the music from Xenon streets away. They likely weren’t even thinking of that.”

(Lisa …precis som 70-talet.)

FASHIONOLOGIE: ” Just weeks after rumors of a possible acquisition by LVMH came up, Rodarte shows their most wearable, commercial collection ever.”

NY TIMES: “The designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy could not even take their bow before they were overwhelmed by a rush of editors and retailers praising them to the heavens.”


_Lisa

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2010.09.15 11:53

Halston vår/sommar 2011

Foto Getty Images

STYLE.COM/MEENAL MISTRY: “Schwab’s second effort for the house—tapped into all the drapey, languid signatures that come to mind when you think of Halston’s seventies heyday (…) little nuances in silhouette that are evidence of a trained designer’s hand.”

(Lisa: Meenal Mistry verkar lite orolig att Marios Schwab kommer att fastna i Heritage-fällan och glömma det originella han är anställd för att tillföra till huvudlinjen. Sarah Jessica Parker säljer underlinjen Halston Heritage bra utan hans hjälp.)

@womensweardaily: Marios Schwab’s sophomore effort at Halston focused on its signature jersey dresses in hues inspired by wild orchids.

(Lisa: Klänningar klänningar klänningar.)

VOUGE/LAUREN DAVID PEDEN: “And a seriously sparkly one-shoulder goddess gown could easily be imagined on a red carpet-bound Hollywood goddess.”


_Lisa

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2010.09.14 17:08

Diesel Black Gold vår/sommar 2010

Foto First View

SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI: “”I love working with leather and I like the idea of artisanal clothing, things that are handworked and have an ‘age’ to them.”

(Lisa: Kokosalaki gör 70-tal i Kalifornien medan Marc Jacobs och Halston gör 70-tal i New York. Man får ta ställning, liksom.)

WONDERLAND: “There is a vintage edge to the latest collection with leather detailing, flared trousers, fitted jackets and a plethora of leather.”

TELEGRAPH/HILARY ALEXANDER: “I was thankful I had been backstage where I had seen the hand-tooled patterns, thonging, lacing and feathered effects which decorated the suede and leather jackets, waistcoats, shorts, miniskirts and jeans.”

(Lisa: Hoppas Kokosalakis skills syndes mer än i debutkollektionen, som hon inte stod bakom fullt ut.)

DAZED: “Diesel Black Gold is about more than just jeans. Rather, Kokosalaki’s two favourite fabrics, at least for her S/S11 collection, seemed to be suede and leather in brown and beige tones.”


_Lisa

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2010.09.14 16:22

Y-3 vår/sommar 2011

YOHJI YAMAMOTO: ““I’m a rocker at heart.”

(Lisa: Janis, Elvis, Jimi, Yoko…)

WWD: “(…) Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 show was an intense mash-up of hard-core street-edge meets punker, Goth, dangerous vamp and bondage babe. All of which would have been spot-on — if the collections were celebrating fall 2009. Instead, the Y-3 lineup felt completely off-course with the spring vibes elsewhere.”

(Lisa: Oj WWD tar i för en gång skull. Tack för det.)

VOGUE/INDIGO CLARKE: “Y3 was experimenting with volume this season.”

(Lisa: De överdimensionerade herrbyxorna är finaste enskilda plagget i kollektionen.)


_Lisa

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2010.09.13 16:12

Thakoon vår/sommar 2011


Foto First View

THAKOON PANICHGUL TILL DAZED: “It was simple, I wanted something that felt fresh and laundered.”

ELLE/CARRIE GORMAN: “Vanilla georgette trapeze dresses, apricot silk millefeuille slips… even the names left you longing for something sweet (…) brilliant balance between modern and ethereal.”

DAZED: “Flowing, see-through and in light colours and white.”

NY TIMES/ERIC WILSON: “Mr. Panichgul is among the handful of young designers who are changing the face of American fashion, and his show seemed to have a lot in common with those of his peers, Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra, who showed the day before.”

STYLE.COM/NICOLE PHELPS. “A positive development for Panichgul, who pushed himself beyond his comfort zone while remaining in step with what we’ve seen elsewhere this season.”


_Lisa

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2010.09.13 15:36

Patrik Ervell vår/sommar 2011

DAZED DIGITAL: “A California-born Swede living in New York City. Quite the combination, don’t you think? And Patrik Ervell’s S/S11 collection had a little of all three those elements in it; the preppy NYC look, Swedish minimalism and the LA-esque nonchalance of Bret Easton Ellis books about life on the US west coast.”

VOGUE.CO.UK/MAX BERLINGER: “His collections are able to be both void of meaning and simultaneously incredibly personal and deeply felt. There is an awkwardness and a hyper-normality to the pieces he makes. He yields clothing that is strangely innocent and endearing, like a young boy trying on his father’s suit.”

GQ: “The Ervellian art-school lad is all grown up. (…) He broods in short-sleeved dress shirts, camel elbow-patched sweaters, and subtly quirky turquoise chinos rolled up with bucks. He’s controlled, self-assured, and, more importantly, still rad as hell in his post-adolescent years.”

WWD: “A lot of men’s designers are fixated on youth and find different ways to idealize it. Ervell, on the other hand, keeps forcing us to contemplate the most painfully awkward stage of adolescence — the one where everything is just an inch too short and the attempts to dress up are sweet but pathetic. We’re dying to see the kid develop a little.”

@StyleSalvage: “Favourite detail of NYFW thus far? For me it’s the horse hair braiding used on the straps of Patrik Ervell’s rucksacks.”


_Agnes Braunerhielm

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2010.09.13 00:58

Costello Tagliapietra vår/sommar 2011

STYLE.COM/MEENAL MISTRY: “The question is, how do we do dresses for day? (…) As it turned out, the duo’s resolution of this fashion conundrum made for one of their best collections to date. The excitement came from an array of neutral-hued dresses with a sense of anonymity, a blank-slate quality that still managed to be both interesting and quite chic.

WWD: “As some real fashion refinement is in the air, making it the perfect moment for the duo’s traditionally elegant, slender dresses in soft-toned georgette or jersey.”

STYLELIST/SARAH CRISTOBAL: “Costello and Tagliapietra focus their techniques on delicate details: the elegant drape of a one-shoulder day dress, the pinched waist gathering of a taupe-colored shift, the way a long jersey gown sashes to one side. (…) We hope the stars continue to align for this talented duo.”


_Agnes Braunerhielm

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2010.09.13 00:35