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Rodeo Runway
Louis Vuitton höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Marc Jacobs transformerade catwalken till en tågperrong när Louis Vuitton visade sin höstkollektion för 2012. Mycket av fokus låg på bagaget, vilket Marc Jacobs med team utgick från när de skapade kollektionen.
MOTTAGANDE: Publiken älskade den teatraliska och spektakulära visningen, och kritikerna menar att Jacobs nu inte bara är kung av New York – utan även i Paris.
STYLE.COM “Only a house with the high-techiest technologies at its disposal could pull off that kind of embroidery.”
VOGUE UK “Rich in detail and colour palette as it was in imagination and conception, this show was a celebration of fashion in every sense…”
SHOWSTUDIO “In short, if you didn’t know Marc and Vuitton ruled Paris, you do now.”
ELLE UK “One wonders if he will ever be able to top this exemplary piece of fashion theatre?”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.09 11:57
Alexander McQueen höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Sarah Burton visade futurism med ett mjukt uttryckssätt, snarare än det hårda, kalla man brukar förknippa med begreppet.
MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna älskar Burtons sätt att förvalta McQueens arv och samtidigt göra något eget av det. Den storslagna finalen plockade poäng, men vissa kritiker tycker att blomcouturen i klänningarna inte hör hemma hos McQueen.
SHOWSTUDIO “Sarah Burton’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection captured that sense of beastly beauty.”
NEW YORK TIMES “Ms. Burton’s presentation was beautiful, but the monumental aspect was riveting — how it affects your eye.”
STYLE.COM The show’s progression from pure white to the grandest possible finale of red and black felt like a journey from innocence to experience.
WWD “Burton expressed her viewpoint in a collection all about lightness with a core of power — and the emotion that makes McQueen McQueen.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.07 11:41
Chanel höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Karl Lagerfeld hade dekorerat catwalken i Paris med kristaller, vilket tillsammans med tjeckisk kubism var hans största inspirationskällor för hösten 2012.
MOTTAGANDE: En kollektion som kommer att sälja, tyckte kritikerna. Men lirar den färgglada paletten helt och hållet med den mörka, gotiska känslan?Vä
SHOWSTUDIO “Le rock, c’est chic. At least for Monsieur Lagerfeld.”
VOGUE UK “It was a feast of colour and texture with a feel of sorcery - Karl’s signature rebellion giving the dark arts a moment within his couture repertoire.”
STYLE.COM “… as it turned out, the colored pieces didn’t fare so well against those penumbral tweeds, or the oily glisten of the feathered pieces that closed the show.”
WWD “But how genuine can angst be when delivered via so pretty a palette? The clothes, though they seemed to roam, were in fact rooted in a single fabulous idea: Chanel sportif.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.07 10:26
Jean Paul Gaultier höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Jean Paul Gaultier visade en höstkollektion för 2012 som innehöll bland annat skinn och metallic. Modellerna hade rakt hår i mittbena och färgglada hårrötter.
MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna tror att det här är en kollektion som inte faller alla i smaken. Den kändes bitvis lite rotlös.
VOGUE UK “It won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but JPG – the designer who likes to fully acknowledge the crowd and enjoy the moment – has a market who will lap it up just as much as he did his deserved attention this evening.”
STYLE.COM “Overall, though, this collection felt a little rootless.”
ELLE UK “Autumn winter 2012 gives us the rebel we expect from him: a hybrid vision of 70s and 80s New York…”
VOGUE “…so that his girls looked like the kind of eighties party animals that were swarming to get into the Mudd Club or Area in the then-dangerous reaches of downtown Manhattan.”
_Elin Nordlund
2012.03.06 16:22
Yves Saint Laurent höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Stefano Pilati visade sin allra sista kollektion (åtminstone för den här vändan) för YSL i Paris. Sexigt, mörkt och exklusivt.
MOTTAGANDE: En av hans bästa kollektioner för märket sedan han tog över som chefsdesigner 2002, tyckte pressen. En del kritiker tycker dock att ägargruppen gör rätt val som låter honom gå.
STYLE.COM “Backless dresses in a chain mail made of metal and rubber were the ultimate expression of Pilati’s hypersexualized vision.”
ELLE UK “This was a designer throwing down his gauntlet – defiantly so – as if staring the YSL bosses square in the face and saying: ‘WHY?’ And ‘LOOK WHAT I CAN DO!’
VOGUE.COM “The legacy Pilati leaves for fall consists of clean-lined, high-waisted trouser suits and jumpsuits, leather T-shirts, pencil skirts, and the quintessential black YSL trenchcoat, sleekly realized in laser-cut leather.”
NEW YORK TIMES “… he was never the right person for Saint Laurent.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.06 15:46
Lanvin höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Alber Elbaz bjöd på en show som innehöll vackra plagg i regnbågens alla färger. Showen avslutades med lite musik från Elbaz själv.
MOTTAGANDE: En glamourös show som kritikerna älskade.
ELLE UK “Alber Elbaz celebrated his 10-year anniversary at Lanvin…with a collection of his greatest hits and a show that ended with him, microphone in hand, singing ‘Que Sera, Sera’.”
VOGUE UK “It was Alber’s greatest hits. It was so fantastic and emotional. He’s a designer who commands and has earned that respect. It was incredibly touching and what a wonderful evening for him,” said Vogue’s Lucinda Chambers after the show.”
FASHIONWIREDAILY “Born in Casablanca, though raised in Morocco, Elbaz in his ten years at Lanvin, has taken a sleepy French institution and remade it into one of the most influential labels in the world.”
VOGUE.COM “He does it in solid shape and color, molding neoprene in bottle green, violet, chrome yellow, or rust red, with frontal peplums smoothed away in back…”
_Elin Nordlund
2012.03.06 10:57
Sonia Rykiel höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Scot Aprils andra kollektion innehöll framförallt neutrala färger och hårband.
MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna gillade det här. Sött och mer sofistikerat. Vilken kvinna som helst skulle vilja ha det här i sin garderob.
STYLE.COM “There was in fact quite a bit that any woman might love to have as staples in her closet…”
VOGUE.COM “The black woolen headbands were also a quirky addition to a work-ready wardrobe…”
VOGUE UK “It was cute but more sophisticated. Maybe too sophisticated at times, but time will tell.”
ELLE UK “This autumn winter 2012 collection, the second with Scot April Crichton at the helm, was notable by its neutrals”
_Elin Nordlund
2012.03.06 10:26
Stella McCartney höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Stella McCartney designar det brittiska lagets OS-kläder, och sportinfluenserna syns också tydligt i hennes höstkollektion, där hon leker med den klassiska, engelska inspirationen “landet möter stan”.
MOTTAGANDE: McCartney får jubel och applåder i Paris, där kritikerna älskar hennes sätt att klä den moderna kvinnan.
NEW YORK TIMES “… Ms. McCartney just gets the modern woman and her life. And that is her strength.”
WWD “Sometimes worlds don’t collide, but coincide — beautifully.”
VOGUE UK “Sporty, luxe and elegant, all at the same time, it was a lovely tight and focused collection…”
ELLE UK “With this collection we’ll buy in to the modern dream and strike gold.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.06 10:13
Chloé höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Clare Waight Keller visade sin andra kollektion för Chloé, där hennes ambition var att låta brittiskt sportmode möta en franskt chic stil.
MOTTAGANDE: Åsikterna går isär om kollektionen – den beskrivs både som urstark och som alldeles för säker. Man är dock överens om att Clare Waight Keller redan fattat vad Chloé går ut på.
SHOWSTUDIO “In my view, this was the best collection Waight Keller has created for the house, and probably the best they’ve shown for a number of years.”
ELLE UK “… there was a nagging feeling throughout this show: that our new Chloe girl—despite all her dewy freshness—looked a bit too polite, a bit safe.”
STYLE.COM “Waight Keller has a good handle on the breezy, uncomplicated frock that is Chloé’s claim to fame.”
FASHIONOLOGIE “Slim-cut trousers, button-down blouses, and utility pockets offered a sense of structure, while breezy pieces in an assortment of lace added girlie charm.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.06 09:53
Givenchy höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Kanye West, Alicia Keys och Sean Combs på front row fick se en mörk och elegant kollektion från Riccardo Tisci, inspirerad av ridsport och Guy Bourdins 70-talsfotografi.
MOTTAGANDE: Givenchys höstkollektion är inte den game changer som vårkollektionen var (peplums!), men kritikerna applåderar som vanligt Tiscis geni.
VOGUE.COM “Jodhpur-shaped pants were given a slouchy modern attitude.”
STYLE.COM “Today’s outing wasn’t the silhouette changer that last season was.”
VOGUE UK “Buffy the Vampire Slayer may yet have her style resurgence if this is how we can bring back the look.”
NEW YORK TIMES “Riding boots came with sheaths over the heels, creating a chimney-stack effect from floor to knees. They looked boss.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.06 09:38
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