VAD LETAR DU EFTER?
Rodeo Runway
Christian Dior höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Gallianos (temporäre?) ersättare Bill Gayten ville ge Dior en mer avskalad look för hösten 2012. Färgskalan gick i mjukt grått, brunt och smutsig rosa.
MOTTAGANDE: Gaytten har verkligen hittat Diors DNA – tyckte vissa. Undantaget var Cathy Horyn på New York Times, som sågade kollektionen och tyckte att den saknade finess.
NOWFASHION “The focus was on the waist—emphasized by a peplum’s flare or a skirt’s fullness.”
VOGUE.COM “Bill Gaytten’s ready-to-wear collection felt like a quiet re-endorsement of the brand’s DNA today.”
FASHIONOLOGIE “… perhaps most importantly — there were countless pieces that one might actually love to wear.”
NEW YORK TIMES “But in the main, the clothes didn’t look like Dior.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.05 15:27
Isabel Marant höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Isabel Marant återvänder gärna till sin älskade Americana-inspiration – så även för hösten 2012. Cowgirl chic i en kollektion som mer flickig och flirtig än cool och sportig.
MOTTAGANDE: Inget nytt under solen tycker kritikerna, men påpekar också att det betyder att Isabel Marant står inför ännu en hitsäsong.
STYLE.COM “This time around, the look is girlier—more Calamity Jane than Buffalo Bill, what with all the lace doily tops and the pleated and frilled silk miniskirts.”
VOGUE UK “Nothing especially new from Marant but you can just tell that’s not really going to be a problem.”
WWD “The lineup was stocked with strong items.”
FASHIONISTA “… somehow, Marant makes cowgirl floral embroidered silk button downs look insanely cool.
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.05 14:56
Ann Demeulemeester höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press
VAD: Avancerade tuppkammar och piratstövlar mötte en mer chic sida i Ann Demeulemeesters höstkollektion, där de svarta plaggen fick sällskap av en vacker, midnattsblå nyans.
MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna välkomnar det graciösa och eleganta inslaget i kollektionen, och konstaterar samtidigt att hardcorefansen inte kommer att bli besvikna.
VOGUE “There was a different sense of elegance threading through Ann Demeulemeester’s collection, one that layered her habitual, artfully disheveled aesthetic with something more conventionally chic.”
NEW YORK TIMES “Ann Demeulemeester is so predictable that occasionally she catches you off guard.”
SHOWSTUDIO “Autumn/Winter 2012 will be known in the annals of Demeulemeester as the fighting-cock coiffure season.”
WWD “The sum of the parts brought to mind Edward Scissorhands, and, like the character, there was a poetic beauty within the menacing exterior.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.02 15:56
Balmain höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Balmains höstkollektion 2012 innehöll smala byxor, axlar och mycket pärlor.
MOTTAGANDE: Sexigt – men ändå Balmain tyckte kritikerna.
STYLE.COM “This boy’s got it all going on. Bravo.”
FASHIONWIREDAILY.COM “Fashion likes nothing more than a sizzling succession, which is what the second collection by Olivier Rousteing achieved on Thursday, March 1, in Paris”
VOGUE UK “It was still sexy, it was still Balmain, but it had moved on and was new.”
NY TIMES “…took inspiration from a Fabergé egg that belonged to Elizabeth Taylor…”
_Elin Nordlund
2012.03.02 11:49
Balenciaga höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: För hösten 21012 föreställde sig Nicolas Ghesquière ett Balenciaga Inc – en catwalk fylld av olika karaktärer från arbetslivet. Bankkvinnor samsades med expediter och it-girls (vilket tydligen också är ett yrke på 00-talet) på visningen i Paris.
MOTTAGANDE: Coolt, vackert och välgjort, tyckte kritikerna – som dock konstaterade att Ghesqière lät fantasin löpa lite väl långt emellanåt.
NY TIMES “When I asked Mr. Ghesquiere about some puffy, oversize tops (as in sweatshirts) with cartoonish graphics on the front, he replied, ‘They’re the corporate spies.’”
STYLE.COM “Not all of it was as pleasing. As in any office, there are people you love and others who leave you cold.”
WWD “…in a fashion world of too much safety, Ghesquière remains an essential and directional risk-taker.”
VOGUE UK “In mint and white, teal and flashes of pink, there also came soft oyster greys, smudged moss greens and electric blues to deliver the whole (work) package beautifully.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.02 10:09
Mugler höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Det var svart, vitt och skarpa siluetter som gällde när Mugler visade sin höstkollektion för 2012 i Paris.
MOTTAGANDE: Det var ett lyckat drag att göra en mer intim show där modellerna gick bara centimeter från front row.
DAZEDDIGITAL.COM “Black and white interplayed with each other in a sculptural oeuvre that evoked the structure of insects with intermittent appearances of textures such as a sequined jacket covered in a dusting of black feathers or a zebra print.”
ELLE.UK “It was hard to keep your eye on one outfit as the stage filled with teams of bodies, all marching in different directions…”
VOGUE.CO.UK “There is, then, a train of thought that Mugler is more about the impact than it is about the clothes.”
STYLE.COM “All in all, a positive step ahead for team Mugler.”
_Elin Nordlund
2012.03.01 15:45
Rochas höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Rochas visade upp en elegant höstkollektion för 2012 med influenser från Skandinavisk keramik.
MOTTAGANDE: Marco Zanini gjorde få besvikna med sin Sverige-inspirerade höstkollektion.
FASHIONWIREDAILY.COM “His colors were autumnal - burnished earth, faded gold leaves or aged plum.”
DAZEDDIGITAL.COM “…like the rest of the collection, it all looked terribly desirable.”
VOGUE.COM “I was thinking about how to make everything look embellished from head to toe,” Zanini had said, “but I didn’t want to resort to doing it in an obvious way.”
ELLE.UK “It was intelligent with a dash of kook—kind of like your favourite pottery collector.”
_Elin Nordlund
2012.03.01 14:47
Gareth Pugh höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Gareth Pugh visade sin – såklart mörka – luddiga och pälsiga höstkollektion på Paris modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: En något mer kommersiell kollektion, som ändå kommer tillfredsställa troga fans som Daphne Guiness. Men är det inte dags för något nytt snart?
VOGUE UK “You can take the boy out of London but you can’t take London out of the boy.”
NY TIMES “Gareth Pugh, one of the young guns of Paris Fashion Week, opened his show this evening with furry and fuzzy coats and capes that called to mind the “sound suits” of the artist Nick Cave.”
STYLE.COM “…it’s hard to ignore the niggle that Pugh needs something bold at this point in his career to knock him up to the next level.”
WWD “…to Pugh’s credit, he toned things down considerably with several looks that actually had commercial appeal, at least by his standards.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.03.01 14:20
Dries Van Noten höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Asiatiska mönster, skräddat och kjolar över byxor var vad vi fick se när Dries Van Noten visade sin höstkollektion för 2012 i Paris.
MOTTAGANDE: Finalen bjöd på tukosa kimonos som fick publiken på läktaren att kippa efter andan.
STYLE.COM ”These were clothes to spark dreams.”
VOGUE.COM ”One way or another, it’s all about a done-up neck this season.”
FASHIONISTA.COM ”So today, four distinct observations from Dries Van Noten’s fantastic 2012 show; 1.The Belgian print master took a trip to Asia…2. The collection was set to Bon Iver’s “Woods”…3. Skirts over pants…4. The outerwear.”
FASHIONWIREDAILY.COM ”… this was an impressive fashion statement by a designer who is very much setting the stylistic agenda today.”
_Elin Nordlund
2012.03.01 13:45
Marni höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: 60-tal, skarpa silhuetter och starka färger stod på schemat när Marni visade sin höstkollektion för 2012 i Milano.
MOTTAGANDE: En stark kollektion som står för sig själv – och kanske även för en ny riktning för Marni? Kanske fick Consuelo Castiglioni ut alla sina “Marni-måsten” i H&M-samarbetet och kan nu experimentera lite, föreslår Tim Blanks på Style.com.
STYLE.COM “…the collection was much more straightforward, maybe more restrained than usual.”
VOGUE.COM “The look, like Castiglioni herself, stands on its own. Brava.”
ELLE UK “The key new Marni pieces are the knee-length skirt pleated at the front like a knife-sharp fan, the cropped trouser, the cape coat, the block-coloured shirt dress and the belted jacket with enormous pockets.”
DAZED DIGITAL “Consuelo Castiglioni went for decisive volumes and natural materials mixed in with synthetic fabrics.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.02.28 16:41
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Winning!! ⛳
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