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Rodeo Runway
Jil Sander höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Raf Simons tog farväl av Jil Sander med sin sista visning i Milano – en kollekion i beige och pastell som ackompanjerades av ett romantiskt, melankoliskt soundtrack och blommor på catwalken.
MOTTAGANDE: Raf grät och front row ställde sig upp, visslade och vrålade när designern kom ut.
STYLE.COM “Good luck to his successor. She’ll need it.”
FASHIONISTA “The palette seemed to be inspired by the wildflowers displayed on the runway; maybe a hint at new beginnings.”
VOGUE.COM “It was a show worthy of the standing ovation it received.”
WWD “One could not miss the contrast of their romantic, even retro, abundance with the spare, minimalist casings.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.02.28 12:10
MaxMara höst/vinter 2012
Foto First View
VAD: MaxMara visade höstkollektion för 2012 på Milanos modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: Militära och marina influenser i form av starka ytterplagg. Kritikerna verkar gilla den förfinade sportlooken.
WWD “They crossbred wartime looks with another dark-hearted movie, Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s “Querelle,” to interesting effect.”
ON THE RUNWAY “You might say the mood of the Milan fall collections, which began on Wednesday, is rarefied and rational rather than conservative or classic.”
VOGUE.COM “Aside from the more apparent maritime references there was an underlying military rigor that has been a map point for many designers this season.”
STYLE.COM “This was a strong outing for MaxMara, focused on the power suiting and outerwear for which it’s known.”
_Rodeo
2012.02.24 11:58
Gucci höst/vinter 2012
Foto First View
VAD: Frida Giannini visade Guccis höstkollektion på Milanos modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: Goth-Gucci tas emot med lågmäld entusiasm. Det handlar om lyx och pengar, som alltid med Gucci, konstaterar kritikerna. Den här gången med en romantisk touch.
SHOWSTUDIO “…that’s what the Gucci look boils down to: unapologetic luxury.”
STYLE.COM “Romantic was the word she used backstage, “but not cute-romantic; it has a confidence,” she said.”
VOGUE.CO.UK “Romantic, yes – and dark without being sinister, despite the fact that there was barely enough light in there to even see the girls.”
VOGUE.COM “The clothes they wore evoked a darkly poetic opulence…It made for Giannini’s best collection yet.”
_Rodeo
2012.02.24 11:36
Prada höst/vinter 2012
Foto First View
VAD: Modevärldens drottning Miuccia Prada visade sin höstkollektion på Milanos modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: Miuccia vill inte göra teori av sitt mode, utan att det ska vara kul. Det betydde en säsong med mer utsmyckning än på länge. Kritikerna konstaterar i vanlig ordning att detta kommer påverka modebilden framöver.
SHOWSTUDIO “Dazzling is certainly the word for the jewel-outlined, richly-coloured and razor-focussed show that she turned out, a gem of a collection for an unsure world.”
ON THE RUNWAY “Ms. Prada’s newest shape is a long sleeveless coatdress worn with trousers…”
WWD “Black dominated the lineup, with jackets, coats, tunics and dresses topping pants cut — and often jeweled — above the ankles.”
MIUCCIA PRADA “This collection is about the pleasure of fashion.”"
STYLE.COM “The imposingly stern quality of these clothes will likely lay out an influential new path for womenswear.”
VOGUE.COM “Miuccia seemed to have mined her own fashion house history for those over-scale embroideries, and also for the geometric prints and vivid color combinations.
_Rodeo
2012.02.24 11:17
Christopher Kane höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/Firstview
VAD: Christopher Kane gör en helomvändning efter förra säsongens ljusa och nästan romantiska kollektion och mixar hårda material med ull och tyll i mörka nyanser av blått och lila.
MOTTAGANDE: En av veckans bästa visningar, enligt kritikerna som älskar Kanes förmåga att göra det oväntade självklart.
WWD “The designer is known for using elements that verge on bad taste, and this season was no exception.”
STYLE.COM “The collection couldn’t have been more of a 180 degree from Spring’s mesmerizing airiness…”
FASHIONOLOGIE “… modern, refined, and decidedly cool.”
VOGUE ITALIA “Christopher Kane is without doubt one of the stars of London fashion.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.02.21 11:20
Burberry Prorsum höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/Firstview
VAD: Burberry Prorsum – själva flaggskeppet i brittiskt mode just nu – visade sin höstkollektion på Londons modevecka. Kollektionen hette “Field and Town”, och handlade om mötet mellan just landet och storstan.
MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna konstaterar att Burberry inte lär få tomt i kassan den här säsongen heller, och uppskattar Christopher Baileys excentriska sida.
STYLE.COM “Another striking match was the brown corduroy jacket belted over a burgundy lace skirt with a substantial peplum.”
WWD “The new accessory is the elasticized bow belt, shown in a variety of colors, which cinched many a coat, jacket and dress.”
FASHIONOLOGIE “While the collection may have been heavy on classic menswear fabrics — herringbone, tweeds — and utilitarian detailing, this collection was 100 percent femme.”
@HILARY ALEXANDER “Eccentric country chic.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.02.21 11:01
Acne höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/First View
VAD: Acne visade sin höstkollektion för 2012 i London. Jonny Johansson utforskade kroppen, och hämtade inspiration från namn som André Kertész, Hans Bellmer och Hanneline Røgeberg.
MOTTAGANDE: En ambitiös kollektion, som visar hur långt Acne har kommit från dagarna som jeansmärke. Men hur kommer kunderna ta emot kollektionen? undrade kritikerna. De kommer älska den, svarade några.
STYLE.COM “They’re playing a new game now, and they intend to play in the big leagues.”
DAZED DIGITAL “It’s restrictive, it’s vicious, it’s glamourous. And it’s never, ever, boring.”
VOGUE.COM “It’s true that some of it got a little forced at times—too many elastic straps around the waist, and occasionally the contrast of weighty, voluminous jackets over supertight skirts looked a little cumbersome.”
WONDERLAND “Pieces ultimately stuck to Acne’s minimalist signature style and could be easily transferred straight from the catwalk into our wardrobes.”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.02.20 18:25
Mulberry höst/vinter 2012
Foto: All Over Press/Firstview
VAD: Mulberrys visning på Londons modevecka var minst sagt sjärntät på första raden.
MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna gillade den referensspäckade – mest syntes inspirationen från Where The Wild Things Are – kollektionen.
STYLE.COM “…the look was deliciously autumnal and appropriately furry.”
VOGUE UK “Not only did Mulberry give us what is likely to be the starriest front row this London Fashion Week, it also gave us what is possibly its best collection yet…”
ELLE UK “… the Mulberry girl can take a lot thrown at her and still look artfully pulled together.”
WWD “… rugged yet luxurious…”
_Marcella Mravec
2012.02.20 10:37
Calvin Klein höst/vinter 2012
Foto First View
VAD: Calvin Klein visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 på New Yorks modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: En välpolerad, sexig Rooney Mara, verkar kritikerna tänka på när de ser kollektionen.
STYLE.COM “But even without the game of peekaboo, these otherwise modest silhouettes looked sexy. That was Costa’s real accomplishment today.”
ON THE RUNWAY “Mr. Costa showed many dresses and coats that stood away from the body, but there were also some slim looks in black leather and beads that are the closest thing to evening wear he has shown on a runway in some years.”
VOGUE.CO.UK “…a robust collection, in terms of fabric and silhouette…”
ELLE.CO.UK “Two words: Rooney Mara. The new face of Calvin Klein?”
_Lisa
2012.02.17 11:41
3.1 Philip Lim höst/vinter 2012
VAD: 3.1 Phillip Lim visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 på New Yorks modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: Långa rants om Phillips Lims förmåga att göra chic funktionalitet, men inga hurrarop direkt.
SHOWSTUDIO “It was really through the outerwear, though, that the collection shined.”
VOGUE.COM “…fuss-free pieces that have stealthily become his signature…”
STYLE.COM “Nothing evil was lurking, and, quite frankly, nothing too surprising…”
VOGUE.CO.UK “Lim started with the idea of comic books which yielded a powerful duality by superimposing one shape onto another…”
_Rodeo
2012.02.16 08:30
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