Rodeo Runway

Proenza Schouler höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Proenza Schouler visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 på New Yorks modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: Energikick i slutspurten av modeveckan, menar kritikerna i New York. Och allt handlar om silhuetter.

ON THE RUNWAY “The fall shows have needed a good, solid jolt, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez did that with a terrific collection that had a number of influences.”

FABSUGAR “Japanese influence and themes of protection (as evidenced by overpowering leather jackets and thick woven details) pervaded Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s incarnation of Fall’s cool-girl.”

@ERICWILSONNYT “Pretty astounding woven leather from Proenza Schouler tonight.”

HINTMAG “Now, more than ever, designers are forgoing embellishment in favor of remodeling silhouettes. No one did it better than Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez at their Proenza Schouler show tonight.”


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2012.02.16 08:13

Rodarte höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Rodarte visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 på New Yorks modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: Från Kalifornien till Australien men med samma spirit. Mer kommersiella än någonsin – men på en nivå som funkar, enligt kritikerna.

WWD “Australia more romantic and distant past informed Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s fall collection.”

VOGUE.COM “…but really, the woman they ended up depicting was the same one: an impressive yet modest survivor over a hardscrabble existence. Somebody with both practicality and poetry ingrained in her spirit.”

STYLE.COM This time around, though, they got the art and commerce balance right.

@CathyHorynNYT @Rodarte knit coat in a more pulled together, conventional show. #textured fabrics, cute knits http://t.co/QTEKI7YX

VOGUE UK “…it seems that they’re looking to build a more grounded business without losing their quirky charms.”


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2012.02.15 11:42

Thom Browne höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Avantgardets störste försvarare i New York Thom Browne visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012.
MOTTAGANDE: Tydligen var kollektionen ett förverkligande av en grupp döda “fashion lovers” zombiedröm om höstens mode. Och det får nog stanna i drömmen, tyckte kritikerna. Om än inte lite lätt omtumlade.

WWD: “Models floated through the dimly lit room in layered, folded, draped, parachuted and reptilian-spiked creations that brought to mind a Tim Burton-meets-Rei Kawakubo moment.”

SHOWSTUDIO “In a word, Thom Browne’s collection was weird… To expand – the audience waited almost twenty minutes in a darkened room looking over several open coffins filled with models in strict suits and strange head-wear playing dead.”

ON THE RUNWAY/ERIC WILSON “What I suspect Mr. Browne was getting at was that he is a designer whose creations are not intended for mortal consumption. They are the stuff of dreams.”

VOGUE.CO.UK “One comes to expect the unexpected from Thom Browne, but a funeral? At a library? Absurd.”

STYLE.COM/TIM BLANKS “The arena in which Thom Browne operates isn’t fashion, it’s the same rich, private world of fantasy that Burton explores on-screen. The world needn’t be what it is, the designer says. And here’s the proof.”


_Lisa

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2012.02.14 14:50

Marc Jacobs höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Marc Jacobs visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 under modeveckan i New York.
MOTTAGANDE: Många beskrivande ord, inte så mycket vettigt sagt. Det var kul!, typ. Ok.

FASHIONOLOGIE “…very Charles Dickens on glitter…”

GLAMOUR.COM “…Mary Poppins on psychedelics…”

WWD “One couldn’t help but feel the emotion.”

VOGUE.CO.UK “…this was a childhood phantasmagoria as seen through the eyes of fashion’s master jokester…”


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2012.02.14 11:35

Derek Lam höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Derek Lam visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 under modeveckan i New York.
MOTTAGANDE: Derek Lam blir typ hyllad för att vara tråkig. Tydligen där han är som starkast.

WWD “Fall was a solid collection for Derek Lam.”

FASHIONOLOGIE “Silhouettes were ladylike and sweetly printed — nothing too tight, too short, too bare, or too loud here.”

VOGUE.COM “He doesn’t need a theatrical runway, with equally theatrical clothes, to show his talent.”


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2012.02.13 12:48

Prabal Gurung höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Prabal Gurung visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 under modeveckan i New York.
MOTTAGANDE: Han har talang men sneglar för mycket på Givenchy, typ.

@CathyHorynNYT “Dark, knife-sharp Prabal, with sheer cutouts, wools that shine or neoprene that looks like a petrol stain, white satin w gold for night”

WWD “That Gurung’s prints and evening razzle-dazzle nodded toward Versace is fine — that house’s iconography is part of fashion’s grand vernacular. Not so his homage to Givenchy, fall 2011…”

PRABAL GURUNG “I realized there are two sides to my life. There is the darkness, and the lightness, of myself.”

ON THE RUNWAY “I told him he was starting to sound like Donna Karan.”

STYLE.COM “…way too much sugar for a dime..”

VOGUE.COM “Gurung still has to learn is the discipline of editing and self-interrogation.


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2012.02.13 12:39

VPL höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: VPL by Victoria Bartlett visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 under modeveckan i New York.
MOTTAGANDE: Det var back to basics – vilket verkar vara svårt att ta på allvar för recensenterna. 

STYLE.COM “…a strong return to first principles…”

NY POST “Were they leotards? Caveman bathing suits?”

WWD “Consider crunchy knitted bodysuits, puffer shorts, bloomers and ‘shoplifter’ boleros.”

 


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2012.02.13 12:18

Victoria Beckham höst/vinter 2012

VAD: Victoria Beckham visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 under modeveckan i New York.
MOTTAGANDE: Fortfarande inte ETT ont ord om Vickys mode! Men flest rapporter om att David var där.

SHOWSTUDIO “Mr Victoria Beckham, some footballer called David, was present at his wife’s show this morning in more ways than one.”

ON THE RUNWAY “…garments that appeared to be physically attached to the wearer.”

WWD “Beckham’s look is undeniably womanly, yet the military and baseball themes gave the collection a gripping dose of street.”

VOGUE.CO.UK “…simple and sexy…”


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2012.02.13 12:11

Altuzarra höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Altuzarra visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 under modeveckan i New York.
MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna jublar och tycker att Joseph Altuzarra blandar influenser från världen över på modernt sätt.

VOGUE.CO.UK “It was the wardrobe of a well-travelled woman whose passport is bursting with stamps from faraway lands.”

STYLE.COM “He’s had hits before but none of them have been quite as ambitious or as all-around successful as this.

DAZED DIGITAL “The Bedouin coins shaking and shimmering down the runway were hypnotic and elegant under his hand, making every motion seem weighted and magic.”


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2012.02.12 19:51

Alexander Wang höst/vinter 2012

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VAD: Alexander Wang visade sin kollektion för höst/vinter 2012 under modeveckan i New York.
MOTTAGANDE: Bort från downtown New York mot något lyxigare. Det kommer sälja, säger kritikerna. 

STYLE.COM “Nearly every surface seemed to have a slick sheen or gloss.”

SHOWSTUDIO “…lacquered tweed, waxed suede, patent leather, coated wool and laser-cut mesh constructions in a bold palette of black, white and oxblood.”

ON THE RUNWAY “It was just bizarre and, yes, a little pretentious.”

DAZED DIGITAL “Everybody wants a piece of the growing Alexander Wang empire.”

VOGUE.CO.UK “It will surely be a finale that’s hard to top this season.”


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2012.02.12 19:35