When the signature look of an entire city is as easily defined as the look itself is effortless people start wanting more. Or, in fact, they ask for what’s next. What’s emerging in Swedish fashion design behind the giant shadow of Acne? For many this week the answer is Altewaisaome or Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome as they’re better known to their families and friends.
This is the fifth collection from the two designers and what a strong outing it was. Inspired by Argentinian artist Raoul Mazzoni they focused on the notion of geometry and off they went. Out came a series of Balenciaga-esque cocoon jackets, at times sleeveless and always with big eyelet detailing in a strict palette of white, black, blush and grey with the odd flash of orange. The styling was just right, in that it detracted nothing from the clothes themselves – just sunglasses in a new collaboration with KunoQvist and simple white wedges that would make Phoebe Philo very happy indeed. A big pleated skirt in blush pink ending just below the knee looked fantastic teamed with a matching round-sleeved round-backed jacket (said back was covered with rows of white circles, embroidered in sequins) but skirts also came short and folded in layers. Very Mazzoni and, it has to be said, very Proenza Schouler too but I wouldn’t be surprised if the New York based design pair featured often on the girls’ reference boards. To be fair, they’ve come to influence many a collection of more mature designers so nothing wrong there.
So, for a collection based on geometry and, in particular, the circle, the sphere and the cylinder, let’s go full circle back to the original question. What’s next for Stockholm fashion? Altewaisaome, it would appear.
By Kiki Georgiou
Kiki Georgiou är baserad i London och skriver regelbundet för Style.com och Showstudio samt brittiska Vogue och Glamour. Se fler bilder från Altewai Saome vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Lisa Corneliusson tyckte här.