An editorial stylists dream, Maria Nordstrom, crafted a collection entitled ’02 Shields’ where she imagined blunt shapes and drew from a vast palette. The designer seemed to explore an array of ideas, with her primary one being an architectural movement in the 90‘s. Siting Koolhaas and Gehry’s as muse, I struggle to see how these ‘units’ can sit together on a rack, as a collection.
There were shining moments of perfectly tailored pants that beautifully moved down the runway, a commercial fete. Then I found myself confused by the lack of coherence; boxy, shaped, rounded shoulders, v-shaped shoulders, metallic, coated, uncoated, cut-outs – it was as if I had just gotten off a fashion roller-coaster.
What I love about the postmodern attitude, sited as example, is the poetry applied between disciplines. In that spirit, I see the designers aim but somehow there was a rhythm lost necessary to make sense of it all. Considering postmodernism is often a personal reality, I had to look at each individual unit – admittedly I could easily see the cropped-sleeve blue shaped jacket with orange embellishments on any magazine cover.
The challenge will be how does one harbor radical freedom of form to the foundation of consumption – without compromising oneself. Well I would say the designer is nearly there and I am eager to see whats next.
By Kristopher Arden-Houser
Kristopher Arden-Houser pendlar mellan Los Angeles, New York och Antwerpen och rapporterar för Vogue.it, Opening Ceremony och Diane Pernet. Han är även med i jurun för H&M Design Award. Se fler bilder från Maria Nordström vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Hanna Johansson tyckte här.