Inspired by the modernist artist Man Ray, known largely for his contributions to the Dada and Surrealist movements, Josefina Larsson’s reference was a surprise considering her gravitation towards color. Granted the majority of the collection was in fact white, it was the deep army greens and soft shades of purple that stayed with me post-show.
Man Ray’s body of work is often a sepia-tone dream, seldom using color except for an accent here or there. Then I remembered a series called ‘Misunderstood’ using wonderful shades of green, purple and burnt orange – I had to laugh as Larsson’s work almost went ‘Misunderstood’ by me.
Sharp cuts, square lines and tight collars started the show, transitioning from a more militant feel to a softer more laced approach, using strings to embellish the silhouettes. This element was carried through to grooming where many of the girls had similarly laced braids and clean faces.
The most surreal, for me, was the oversized elastic bands (seemingly built-in and accessorized) left me with a question – what modern girl in the early 21st century, or the 20th century for that matter, would want this extra volume riding on her hip?
Whether interested in added volume or not, the debut show of the recent Central Saint Martins MA graduate was a shining success. A pension for color, a strong sense of atmosphere this talent is certainly one I will continue to watch.
By Kristopher Arden-Houser
Kristopher Arden-Houser pendlar mellan Los Angeles, New York och Antwerpen och rapporterar för Vogue.it, Opening Ceremony och Diane Pernet. Han är även med i jurun för H&M Design Award. Se fler bilder från Carin Wester vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Hanna Johansson tyckte här.