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STOCKHOLM SS13: Show report — Dagmar

The three lovely Dagmar sisters have taken London by storm and it’s easy to see why. Their collections epitomise the essence of ‘Scandi cool’ (Parisian labels are so last season) but without any compromise in fit and quality. If you’re just a regular shopper browsing through a Dagmar rail at a store you’ll have to take a closer look at their knitwear, you’ll want to feel it and you’ll very likely want to try something on. And now, with Net-a-Porter as a new stockist the world is their oyster!

Their S/S’13 collection felt light and fresh and very summery. It opened with a video of leaves fluttering in the breeze and a long light green dress, with slits to the sides – the kind of dress you’ll want to wear on a warm summer’s evening, just after you’ve washed the sand off your hair and right before the first cocktail of the night. The print, in both a zesty bright combo of yellow, pink and blue and a more earthy stone, sand and white referenced the sisters’ interest in bio architecture; high tech homes carved as pre-historic caves. The best of both worlds, then and now, a mountain side sliced through to reveal hidden layers of earth and stone. But, of course, you don’t need to know all that because it also looked like a big cone of ice-cream flavours melting onto each other and that sounds just tasty.

So, the light pieces felt great for packing into a suitcase and jetting of to Ibiza (think neon accents and cricket bikinis) but the rest felt right for a summer in the city. Sporty shapes like zip-up bomber jackets were teamed with knee-length skirts, jacquard knit dresses and gorgeous thick asymmetric jumpers were worn on top of chic jogger trousers. You could just see someone knitting that with big long needles and a lot of love. There was also a play with non-natural fabrics like neoprene and it looked good but the sisters are always best when they take natural materials, like cotton and leather and linen, and they turn them into something cool but easy, so right for now and classic. They’re like chefs, if you like, not fussing about transforming their basket of fresh produce into something unrecognisable. The Dagmar S/S’13 collection as a plate of food? A fresh summery salad with bright juicy berries the girls picked themselves. Like I said, tasty!

By Kiki Georgiou

Kiki Georgiou är baserad i London och skriver regelbundet för Style.com och Showstudio samt brittiska Vogue och Glamour. Se fler bilder från Dagmar vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Marcella Mravec tyckte här.

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STOCKHOLM SS13: Show report — Carin Wester

Nearly ten years into her career and adorned with the metals of accomplishment, Carin Wester sites the the 80‘s classic ‘Working Girl’ as reference for her spring/summer collection. A bit perplexed, I try to answer how the designer and ‘Tess McGill’ relate, I’m certain it has something to do with a double-breasted jacket.

Strong, determined, ambitious and destined to be a force – these are our heroines characteristics from the film, yet down our electric yellow runway we saw a looser more feminine approach to our leading ladies. Striking blue and clover green are our impact colors, paired with a singular print that marry all the vibrant colors with graphite and yellow. I did see a great deal of ‘Katharine Parker’ in the collection; single button, square-shaped jackets often coated with long masculine lines. The difference being, our filmic manipulator was best realized in the men’s collection versus the women’s.

Side-note, New York’s cityscape must have been considered as character by Wester, with her “knife-cutting shapes” in black and white. Otherwise I struggle to settle their place in the flow, none-the-less the overall proportions of the show would have any modern ‘Working Girl‘ feel ready for today’s professional landscape – whether in the cubicle or outside of.

By Kristopher Arden-Houser

Kristopher Arden-Houser pendlar mellan Los Angeles, New York och Antwerpen och rapporterar för Vogue.it, Opening Ceremony och Diane Pernet. Han är även med i jurun för H&M Design Award. Se fler bilder från Carin Wester vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Marcella Mravec tyckte här.

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STOCKHOLM SS13: Show report — Filippa K

For the Filippa K show the fashion pack was packed into taxis and driven to the suburbs of the city to a disused railway arch somewhere nowhere. A location scout’s wet dream for a show, basically; all clean urban lines and hard surfaces – perfect for counterbalancing with a soft collection and who better for such a task than Filippa K. Oh, and did I mention the soundtrack came courtesy of a live performance by Saint Lou Lou?

If the setting was memorable the collection from the Swedish powerhouse was not but that probably counts as mission accomplished back at Filippa K HQ. Style, simplicity and quality are the defining values and the collection was full of the kind of pieces you’d see at their boutique and buy without a moment’s hesitation. The oatmeal ribbed knit to throw over a simple raw silk lack tee and pyjama trousers. A simple black shirt with a ‘surprise!’ of a pleated back. The olive green bomber jacket to throw over a summery dress. Structure however was more limited than in previous collections, summarised in a black trouser suit. The rest was floaty, breezy, easy, so much so that at times it resembled lux loungewear. ‘Feminine’ and ‘sensual’ were the key words used by Head of Design Nina Bogstedt and they were reflected in the long, lightly pleated skirts with drawstring waists, that came in navy, coral and lavender. A tan leather short skirt teamed with a light blue shirt looked great and in the end, it was the contrast of the colours that worked rather than the grouping of them.

But beware: easy breezy has its dangers as proven by a model that tripped on her long – too long? – palazzo trousers even in bare feet. It did make me wish for more structure and tailoring. Too much floating and you may lose ground!

 

By Kiki Georgiou

Kiki Georgiou är baserad i London och skriver regelbundet för Style.com och Showstudio samt brittiska Vogue och Glamour. Se fler bilder från Filippa K vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Lisa Corneliusson tyckte här.

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STOCKHOLM SS13: show report — Altewai Saome

When the signature look of an entire city is as easily defined as the look itself is effortless people start wanting more. Or, in fact, they ask for what’s next. What’s emerging in Swedish fashion design behind the giant shadow of Acne? For many this week the answer is Altewaisaome or Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome as they’re better known to their families and friends.

This is the fifth collection from the two designers and what a strong outing it was. Inspired by Argentinian artist Raoul Mazzoni they focused on the notion of geometry and off they went. Out came a series of Balenciaga-esque cocoon jackets, at times sleeveless and always with big eyelet detailing in a strict palette of white, black, blush and grey with the odd flash of orange. The styling was just right, in that it detracted nothing from the clothes themselves – just sunglasses in a new collaboration with KunoQvist and simple white wedges that would make Phoebe Philo very happy indeed. A big pleated skirt in blush pink ending just below the knee looked fantastic teamed with a matching round-sleeved round-backed jacket (said back was covered with rows of white circles, embroidered in sequins) but skirts also came short and folded in layers. Very Mazzoni and, it has to be said, very Proenza Schouler too but I wouldn’t be surprised if the New York based design pair featured often on the girls’ reference boards. To be fair, they’ve come to influence many a collection of more mature designers so nothing wrong there.

So, for a collection based on geometry and, in particular, the circle, the sphere and the cylinder, let’s go full circle back to the original question. What’s next for Stockholm fashion? Altewaisaome, it would appear.

By Kiki Georgiou

Kiki Georgiou är baserad i London och skriver regelbundet för Style.com och Showstudio samt brittiska Vogue och Glamour. Se fler bilder från Altewai Saome vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Lisa Corneliusson tyckte här.

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Stockholm SS13 | show report | Nhu Duong

The opening line of Nhu Duong’s biography certainly gets your imagination going. ”Born in Ho Chi Minh City as daughter of a Kung-Fu Master and a tailoress [sic]…” has quite the ring to it and combined with a small collection of Emerging Talent awards, expectations quickly rise.

The appearance of a white cotton tee with a layer of green tulle teamed with a grey knee-length skirt was a nod to the relaxed simplicity we’ve come to expect from our Swedish brands but there was a sportiness in the cut that felt promising. A couple of super-wide pleated palazzo pants were interesting but were quickly overtaken by a succession of, what can only be described as, cut-off-trouser ‘boots’ rising to mid-thigh that accompanied some short dresses. With said expectations somewhat deflated things picked up again when a diaphanous tulle bomber jacket showed up and then again in a check pattern teamed with simple black trousers. 

It’s clear that Duong’s interest lies in new technology and materials; after all, in her show notes the knitwear are described as ”woven from stainless steel and fluorescent fibre” so hopefully she will continue to develop these along with the sporty silhouettes that set her apart from others. Those felt modern and fresh. It’s just that the glow-in-the-dark big reveal of the finale felt a bit gimmicky. But she is young and there was certainly just enough here to keep the interest alive. Till next season! 

By Kiki Georgiou 

Kiki Georgiou är baserad i London och skriver regelbundet för Style.com och Showstudio samt brittiska Vogue och Glamour. Se fler bilder från Nhu Duong vår/sommar 2013 och läs vad Rodeos Marcella Mravec tyckte här

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