Mode, Nyheter

Jean Paul Gaultier höst/vinter 2012

Foto: All Over Press/First View

VAD: Jean Paul Gaultier visade en höstkollektion för 2012 som innehöll bland annat skinn och metallic. Modellerna hade rakt hår i mittbena och färgglada hårrötter.

MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna tror att det här är en kollektion som inte faller alla i smaken. Den kändes bitvis lite rotlös.

VOGUE UK ”It won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but JPG – the designer who likes to fully acknowledge the crowd and enjoy the moment – has a market who will lap it up just as much as he did his deserved attention this evening.”

STYLE.COM ”Overall, though, this collection felt a little rootless.”

ELLE UK ”Autumn winter 2012 gives us the rebel we expect from him: a hybrid vision of 70s and 80s New York…”

VOGUE ”…so that his girls looked like the kind of eighties party animals that were swarming to get into the Mudd Club or Area in the then-dangerous reaches of downtown Manhattan.”

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Sonia Rykiel höst/vinter 2012

Foto: All Over Press/First View

VAD: Scot Aprils andra kollektion innehöll framförallt neutrala färger och hårband.

MOTTAGANDE: Kritikerna gillade det här. Sött och mer sofistikerat. Vilken kvinna som helst skulle vilja ha det här i sin garderob.

STYLE.COM ”There was in fact quite a bit that any woman might love to have as staples in her closet…”

VOGUE.COM ”The black woolen headbands were also a quirky addition to a work-ready wardrobe…”

VOGUE UK ”It was cute but more sophisticated. Maybe too sophisticated at times, but time will tell.”

ELLE UK ”This autumn winter 2012 collection, the second with Scot April Crichton at the helm, was notable by its neutrals”

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Mode, Nyheter

Balenciaga höst/vinter 2012

Foto: All Over Press/First View

VAD: För hösten 21012 föreställde sig Nicolas Ghesquière ett Balenciaga Inc – en catwalk fylld av olika karaktärer från arbetslivet. Bankkvinnor samsades med expediter och it-girls (vilket tydligen också är ett yrke på 00-talet) på visningen i Paris.
MOTTAGANDE: Coolt, vackert och välgjort, tyckte kritikerna – som dock konstaterade att Ghesqière lät fantasin löpa lite väl långt emellanåt.

NY TIMES ”When I asked Mr. Ghesquiere about some puffy, oversize tops (as in sweatshirts) with cartoonish graphics on the front, he replied, ‘They’re the corporate spies.’”

STYLE.COM ”Not all of it was as pleasing. As in any office, there are people you love and others who leave you cold.”

WWD ”…in a fashion world of too much safety, Ghesquière remains an essential and directional risk-taker.”

VOGUE UK ”In mint and white, teal and flashes of pink, there also came soft oyster greys, smudged moss greens and electric blues to deliver the whole (work) package beautifully.”

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Mode, Nyheter

Mugler höst/vinter 2012

Foto: All Over Press/First View

VAD: Det var svart, vitt och skarpa siluetter som gällde när Mugler visade sin höstkollektion för 2012 i Paris.

MOTTAGANDE: Det var ett lyckat drag att göra en mer intim show där modellerna gick bara centimeter från front row.

DAZEDDIGITAL.COM ”Black and white interplayed with each other in a sculptural oeuvre that evoked the structure of insects with intermittent appearances of textures such as a sequined jacket covered in a dusting of black feathers or a zebra print.”

ELLE.UK ”It was hard to keep your eye on one outfit as the stage filled with teams of bodies, all marching in different directions…”

VOGUE.CO.UK ”There is, then, a train of thought that Mugler is more about the impact than it is about the clothes.”

STYLE.COM ”All in all, a positive step ahead for team Mugler.”

 

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Gareth Pugh höst/vinter 2012

Foto: All Over Press/First View

VAD: Gareth Pugh visade sin – såklart mörka – luddiga och pälsiga höstkollektion på Paris modevecka.
MOTTAGANDE: En något mer kommersiell kollektion, som ändå kommer tillfredsställa troga fans som Daphne Guiness. Men är det inte dags för något nytt snart?

VOGUE UK ”You can take the boy out of London but you can’t take London out of the boy.”

NY TIMES ”Gareth Pugh, one of the young guns of Paris Fashion Week, opened his show this evening with furry and fuzzy coats and capes that called to mind the “sound suits” of the artist Nick Cave.”

STYLE.COM ”…it’s hard to ignore the niggle that Pugh needs something bold at this point in his career to knock him up to the next level.”

WWD ”…to Pugh’s credit, he toned things down considerably with several looks that actually had commercial appeal, at least by his standards.”

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