I studion väntar vi spänt på att höst-kollektionen skall komma tillbaka från fabriken i Estland. För två veckor sedan spenderade jag och en av våra praktikanter helgen i studion med gradering. I sista sekund fick vi ihop alla tygrullar, mönster, specifikationer och tillbehör för att skicka iväg det till fabriken. Grovjobbet är för mig slutfört och mina tankar finns hos den stundande kollektionen för SS2012. Men självklart skall vi ta det i kronologisk ordning. Vi börjar från början.
In the studio we’re restlessy waiting for FW 11/12 to be sent back from the factory in Estonia where it is produced. Two weeks ago I and one of our interns spent the weekend grading. Everything was sent to Estonia a bit last minute. Most of the work is done considering that collection and for now my thoughts are with SS2012. We’ll start from the beginning with FW 11/12.
Josefin Strid’s Fall 2011 collection is based on the book »The Piano teacher« by Elfriede Jelinek. The designer chooses as her muse the 40 year old piano teacher Erika Kohut, who is the central figure in the book. Erika still lives with her mother and teaches piano, since she never became a star herself. She is different, some think she is mentally diseased. She sneaks out from her controlling mother as often as she can to watch the young lovers in the park. At home sometimes she cuts herself in the abdomen. A young student named Walter Klemmer seduces her and she defeats him with her sick thoughts and her disgust for the human body.
With this collection the designer aims to imbue a feeling of corporeality in her pieces, by the use of nude colours in different shades and materials which are reminiscent of the human body. Sleek materials such as lycra and light silks, both transparent and opaque are visible in the collection, as well as cut through the fabric which seem to suggest the obsessive way in which Erika Kohut – The Piano Teacher – used to cut her body.
Key pieces in wools and leathers are sliced in various thicknesses, impregnating the collection with not only Erika’s state of mind but also with her dress sense, which fluctuated between frumpy and minimalist elegance. Examples are the underwear, the length of the skirts, the blouses and the properly styled dresses which make this collection a true classic and a one of a kind tribute
Sketching process 2D and 3D.
Choping Dress, skeleton skirt, Chopin Coat- process.
Fabric developement and styling.