Recension, Skönhet

Thierry Mugler Angel Eau Sucrée 2015

I have posted about my Thierry Mugler Angel collection before, and of course it has expanded since we last saw it. Eau Sucrée 2014 (a silvery blue metallic bottle with sugar texture) was in my collection post, now I have the Eau Sucrée 2015 (clear blue bottle with the same sugar texture) too!

The notes in the original Angel EdP are mainly sour red berries, honey, vanilla, caramel, cocoa and patchouli. A serious smack in the face. In both Eau Sucrée versions which are EdT’s we get red fruits sorbet, caramelized meringue, vanilla and patchouli instead, so a lot sweeter and lighter than the original. The 2014 version of Eau Sucrée was more sugary and meringue-like, 2015 is more bright and fruity. Quite damn far away from the original smack in the face, but hey, I need my Angel fix. Ok?

My bottle is from Grand Parfymeri here in Gothenburg.

thierry mugler angel eau sucrée 2015

The perfume comes in the classic star shaped bottle, this time with sugar textured clear blue glass.

selma

Oh, and Selma said hi! She’s busy sleeping and sorting her paws in size order.

Viola, Killer Colours
Promotion

Mode, Recension, Skönhet

Byredo x Oliver Peoples

Ljuva nyheter! Svenska nischparfymhuset Byredo teamade nyligen upp med glasögonmärket Oliver Peoples och släppte en parfym samt tre par solglasögon, båda unisex och i tre färgsättningar – indigo, champagne och grönt. Brillor med matchande fume, ja tack. Jag har den indigoblå flaskan här, de är alla vackra så det var väldigt svårt att välja en favorit.

De listade noterna är enbär, citron, patchouli, iris, varm sand, mysk och helichrysum. På min hud öppnar den med klibbig och rätt söt patchouli (ingen hippie-patch, mer sofistikerad) med en en kall enbärsnot i ett par timmar, sedan mjuknar den ner till en myskig varm huddoft kantad av iris. Den är torrare och förlorar klibbigheten så snart basnoterna framträder, så det är där vi har noten av varm sand. Att patchoulin inte höll ut till slutet förvånar mig, den har en tendens att alltid göra det på mig, men eftersom basen är omfamnande mjuk så veknar den inte utan patchen.

Byredo Oliver Peoples är en Eau de Parfum och kommer i flaska om 50 ml, finns på NK nu.

 

Lovely news! Swedish niche perfume house Byredo recently teamed up with the eyewear brand Oliver Peoples and released a perfume and a pair of sunglasses, both unisex and available in three colour settings – indigo, champagne and green. Shades with matching fumes, yes please. I have the indigo bottle here, they all look gorgeous so it was really hard to pick a favourite.

The listed notes of the perfume are juniper berry, lemon, patchouli, orris butter, warm sand, musk and helichrysum. On my skin it starts off with a sticky and quite sweet patchouli (no hippie patch, way more sophisticated) with a cold juniper note for a couple of hours, then it mellows down to a musky warm skin scent smoothened by iris. It is more dry than sticky once I get to the drydown, so that’s where we have the warm sand. I was surprised that the patch didn’t stay until the end, it always does on me, but as the base is so warm and comforting it doesn’t weaken without it.

Byredo Oliver Peoples is an Eau de Parfum and comes in a 50 ml bottle, out now.

byredo oliver peoples

The indigo bottle. In softer light it looks nearly black but when looked at through a window it turns into this delicate aqua colour.

Viola, Killer Colours

Skönhet

Parfumerie Générale Felanilla & DjHenné

Min första flaska nischparfym var från Parfumerie Générale, ett franskt parfymhus med parfymören Pierre Guillaume i spetsen som verkligen spelar efter min näsas regler. Genomgående i linjen, lite DNA-artat, är en knastertorr silkighet som jag är väldigt svag för, något som i många dofter grundar sig i kakao, ljust trä eller mjuka sädesslag. Stramt, lent och lekfullt snarare än sötsliskigt trots flertalet gourmandnoter. Finns att köpa på Parfumerie Générales hemsida.

My first bottle of niche perfume was from Parfumerie Générale, a French house by perfumer Pierre Guillaume who has a taste very compatible with mine. There’s a dry silkiness running through the line, like a DNA, which I’m very fond of. In many of the perfumes it comes from cacao, light woods or soft hay or grains. It’s rather soft and dry with a playful edge than sickly sweet even though there are many gourmand notes. Available at the Parfumerie Générale website.

parfumerie générale felanilla & djhenné

Felanilla

Detta var alltså min första flaska nisch, och efter flera år är den fortfarande en av mina absoluta favoriter. En torr och mörk doft av vanilj, iris och grön banan omfamnad av fluffigt torrt hö. Ambra värmer i botten vilket triggar vaniljen lite extra. En väldigt ovanlig vaniljdoft, värd att dofta på för den som inte brukar gilla vanilj då denna inte är ett dugg söt.

So this was my first niche bottle, and after many years it’s still one of my absolute favourites. A dry an dark vanilla, iris and green banana hugged by a cloud of fluffy dry hay. Amber warms it at the base which gives the vanilla an extra punch. A very unusual vanilla scent, worth smelling for those who usually don’t like vanillas as this one isn’t sweet at all.

DjHenné

Denna flyttade in här några år senare, även den älskad till tusen. Inleds med iskall spearmint och lavendel, går över i ett svalt cederträ och spränger sedan igenom med krämig mörk kakao och varm myrra. Allt detta inlindat i mjukt vete. Otroligt kontrastrik! Lavendelnoten är det bästa jag vet med denna doft, den är som en flirt med klassisk barber style lavendelcologne men i helt annat sammanhang än förr.

This one moved in a few years later, also loved to pieces. Begins with an ice cold spearmint and lavender, transforms into a cool cedarwood and then blasted through with a creamy dark cocoa and warm myrrh. All this wrapped in soft wheat. Incredibly contrasting! The lavender note is my favourite about this scent, it’s like a flirt with classic barbershop style lavender cologne but in a completely different context than before.

Viola, Killer Colours

Recension, Skönhet

Iris as a perfume note – some of my favourite iris scents

Iris är en av mina absoluta favoriter när det kommer till doftnoter i parfym. Om ni inte är bekanta med iris så föreställ er den torra pudriga doften av vintageläppstift, det är en karaktär irisen ofta tar i klassisk damparfym (dålig generalisering då alla ska bära det de vill, men ni är med mig) och relaterar då lätt till viol som doftnot. I mer lättsmälta nyproducerade parfymer vrids den ofta till att upplevas rätt söt och varm bebis-ish, inte sällan i kombination med vanilj, vit choklad och/eller kola. Sedan kan den till fullständig motsats vara kall och mineraliskt jordig, inte helt olik doften av nyplockade morötter, och så ser vi den oftare i så kallad unisex- eller herrparfym. Sen finns ju förstås nischmärkena som producerar helvilda tolkningar utan några som helst begränsningar men det är lätt att bekanta sig med noter genom det konventionella utbudet och hitta sin väg in i nischen därefter, inte minst för plånbokens skull. Irisen är alltså en ytterst universal not som kan böjas till att passa de flesta näsor.

Trots att själva blomman ser väldoftande ut så kommer doften inte därifrån utan destilleras från rhizomerna, de vattenbärande knölarna varifrån både rötter, blad och blomstänglar skjuter ifrån. Irisens hjärta liksom. I parfymvärlden kan benämningarna växla mellan iris, orris, iris root och orris root, egentlig skillnad mellan dessa verkar vara svårdefinierad.

 

Iris is one of my absolute favourites when it comes to perfume notes. If you aren’t familiar with iris yet then imagine the dry, powdery scent of a vintage lipstick, that’s a character that the iris often takes on in classic womens perfume (bad generalization as everyone should wear whatever they want, but you’re with me) and then it relates easily to violet as a note. In new, easily digested perfumes it’s often portrayed quite sweet and warm baby-esque, often combined with vanilla, white chocolate and/or caramel. As a total contrast it can also appear cold, mineralic and earthy, not unlike the scent of newly plucked carrots, and that’s how it’s often portrayed in so called unisex or mens perfume. Then of course we have the niche brands who create these crazy, limitless interpretations but it’s easy to get to know the notes through conventional lines and then dig into the niche, mainly for the sake of your wallet I would say. So the iris is quite a universal note that can be worked to suit almost any nose.

Even though the flower looks like it should smell wonderfully the scent actually comes from the rhizomes, water bearing bulbs from where both roots, leaves and flower stalks grow. The heart of the iris if you like. In the perfume world you can see it mentioned as iris, orris, iris root and orris root, any actual difference between these seems hard to define.

iris

Rhizome bearing iris. Photo by my dear mother Helena Holmgren.

van cleef & arpels collection extraordinaire bois d'iris

Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire Bois d’Iris

Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire Bois d’Iris

A warm and smooth iris combined with incense and balsamic ambra. On me it is very “salty”, it flirts with the scent of warm skin which gives the cool iris a more laid back feeling.

dior homme edt

Dior Homme EdT

Dior Homme EdT

A velvety smooth combination of iris, cacao, amber, lavender and leather. Warm, cool, warm, cool, warm cool.. Very complex and completely alluring. The EdT has a brighter iris note than the EdP which I find far too heady.

chanel no. 19 poudre

Chanel No. 19 Poudré

Chanel No. 19 Poudré

A bright and crisp, slightly bitter scent with iris, galbanum, musk and vetiver. The perfect flirt between todays obsession with fresh clean scents and soapy vintage perfumery (as it’s based on the classic Chanel No. 19 from 1970). The perfect scent for a serious meeting.

iris

Rhizome bearing iris. Photo by my dear mother Helena Holmgren.

 

Other violet scents to broaden your spectrum with, go search at Fragrantica:

  • Tom Ford Violet Blonde – classy neo-retro
  • Aqua di Parma – Iris Nobile – soft, sweet
  • Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist – cold, melancholic
  • Prada Infusion d’Iris – powdery, fresh
  • Guerlain l’Heure Bleue – calm, vintage soap
  • Guearlain Iris Ganache – powdery, sweet
  • Histoires de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge – vulgar, overripe
  • Yves Saint Laurent Paris – romantic, floral
Viola, Killer Colours

Recension, Skönhet

Why collect stamps or coins when you can collect Angels?

Jag har ett problem. Eller problem och problem, en bugg i hjärnan kanske? Jag har ingen som helst hejd när det kommer till kultparfymen Angel från Thierry Mugler. Det var en av mina första doftförälskelser och så har det förblivit. Supermånga noter listas men i grund och botten bjuds det på en käftsmäll av syrliga röda bär, honung, vanilj, kola, kakao och patchouli. Originalet är en Eau de Parfum, en Eau de Toilette tillkom för några år sedan samt att doften årligen släpps i limiterade (och ofta rätt svårfunna) specialvarianter. EdP och EdT går att finna i de flesta parfymavdelningar om du är sugen på att dofta.

Efter att ha läst Fröken Rosas Angelknarkade blogginlägg så kände jag att det var dags att lufta min egen änglaarmé, så här kommer de, flaska för flaska!

 

I have a problem. Or should I call it a bug in my brain? I have no limits when it comes to the cult perfume Angel by Thierry Mugler. It was one of my first perfume loves and it hasn’t changed since then. A bunch of notes are listed but what’s mainly served is a smack in the face with sour red berries, honey, vanilla, caramel, cocoa and patchouli. The original is an Eau de Parfum, an Eau de Toilette was added a few years ago plus every year the scent is releaded in limited (often hard to find) special editions. EdP and EdT are available at most perfume counters if you feel like smelling it.

After seeing Fröken Rosa declare her love to the scent I felt that it was time to bust out my own army of Angels, so here they are, bottle by bottle!

thierry mugler angel collection

They all come in different star shaped bottles, they are all pieces of art, and together.. arghh I can’t handle it!

thierry mugler angel 20th anniversary edition

Angel 20th Anniversary Edition. EdP, original scent (1992) released in a limited edition bottle (2012). It’s actually among my newest Angels, I chose spending money on limited editions rather than the easily acquired original, but when I found this gorgeous 20th anniversary bottle it was time.

thierry mugler angel edt

Angel EdT. Permanent, released in 2011. The fruitier and softer version, yet just as strong as the original. Not at all watered down, more like the same scent with other proportions. Worth a try if you dislike the earthiness of the original, I know some people do.

thierry mugler angel aqua chic 2012

Angel Aqua Chic. EdT, limited edition released in 2012. A really fresh one, bright and crisp with cornflower water and a lot of lemon. It feels like sparkling water, it fizzes! It still has the patchouli and vanilla which keeps its original ID, but it’s low on caramel. This is one of my best hot weather perfumes, all categories.

thierry mugler the taste of fragrance angel

The Taste of Fragrance Angel. EdP, limited edition released in 2011. French top chef Helene Darozze created recipes based on four classic Thierry Mugler scents and perfumes were released with a gourmand note added, a taste enhancer. This version is like the original EdP but PACKED with dark unsweetened cocoa powder. Thick and alluring. My favourite Angel scent out of all.

thierry mugler angel eau sucree

Angel Eau Sucrée. EdT, limited edition released in 2014. A screechy sweet caramelized meringue and tangy berry sorbet. Barely any patchouli or vanilla in this one, not much Angel at all to be honest. My silly nose has a thing for scents like V&R Flowerbomb and Aquolina Pink Sugar Sparks, and this sugary edition fits well into that category. Not the best release Angel-wise even though I really enjoy wearing it.

thierry mugler angel liqueur de parfum

Angel Liqueur de Parfum. EdP, limited edition released in 2013. Aged in toasted oak barrels like fine cognac which adds a warm and super smooth dimension to the scent. It’s also packed with honey which enhances the velvety feeling even further. The sour red berries are replaced with a hint of something ripe and soft without turning sugary sweet. It’s easily the softest Angel I’ve ever smelled, also one of my top picks.

Viola, Killer Colours
Killer Colours

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Blog info:
Glossy claws, purrty lips, serious eyebrows and a passion for beauty with brains. Beauty blogger and MUA from Gothenburg, Sweden.

My name is Viola Holmgren and I've been representing Swedish beauty bloggerism (yes. we're a cult) since 2008. I focus on cruelty free beauty and I love the feeling of finding cool products that have gone under the radar.

Makeup doesn't have rules. The only person who decides what's right or wrong and if you're wearing it or not is you, and that's where my job as a blogger comes in handy. Use my experience as a guide or an inspiration towards finding your own way.

And just to clarify, all reviews and opinions are my own, there is no evil baby demon on my left shoulder who is bribing, forcing or possessing me to write. Reviews are best written in honesty!