Recension, Skönhet

IsaDora Face Sculptor Nude review + tutorial (and a rant about contouring palettes)

Let’s prata lite om contouringpaletter innan vi börjar!

I allmänhet är jag ju så kräkless på hypen kring alla dessa stora dyra paletter med 6+ nyanser i olika undertoner och djuphetsgrader (jag tittar på er Anastasia), de är fullständigt överflödiga för normalkonsumentens bruk! Du behöööver inte fyra nyanser av snickersbrun contouring och fyra färger från panggult till glittervitt för highlighting, det är till för makeupartister som behöver flexibla paletter som ska fungera på så många kunder som möjligt, och produkterna är i sin tur formulerade för att applicera tungt så ansiktena inte tvättas ur på bild och film. Med andra ord produkter som sällan ser riktigt kloka ut i vanligt dagsljus. Om vi då säger att två pannor ur paletten är optimala för dig färgmässigt, varför betala för och släpa på resten?

Är du sugen på sculpting så skulle jag råda dig att hitta ett tightare litet kit om två eller tre produkter, eller kanske till och med en askig ögonskugga som fungerar mot din hudton. Gärna skira formulas som är lätthanterade på huden! Då kommer du både spara pengar, tid framför spegeln och utrymme i sminkväskan. För ärligt, den typ av ansiktsskulptering som sprider sig från Instagram idag är drag-makeup (bokstavligen, det är dragmakeuptekniker!) som har letat sig hem till vardagskonsumenten. Alla ska givetvis se ut och göra vad än de vill med sina ansikten men att vi ska måla ett brunt U runt näsan innan vi går ut på morgonen för att göra rätt och vara snygga är bara bullshite. Punkt. Det är just på grund av ovanstående jag är glad att se contouringpaletter lika den jag tänker visa nu.

 

Let’s talk a little about contouring palettes before we start!

Overall I’m so tired I could puke from all the hype around these large expensive palettes with 6+ shades in different undertones and depths (I’m looking at you Anastasia), they are way too much for regular consumer use! You don’t neeeed four shades of snickers brown contouring and four shades between bright yellow and sparkly white for highlighting, those are for makeup artists that need flexible palettes that work on as many customers as possible, and the products are formulated to go on heavily so that the faces won’t look washed out in pictures and on film. In other words products that probably won’t look that good in regular daylight. Then let’s say two pans from the palettes are your optimal colour choices, why pay for and carry around the rest of them?

If you feel like going at it with the sculpting I would advice you to find a tighter little kit or even just an ashy eyeshadow that works against your skintone, preferrably sheer formulas that are easy to work with on the skin. You will save both money, time in front of the mirror and space in your makeup bag. Because honestly, the type of face scupting that seeps from Instagram today is pure drag makeup (literally, it’s drag makeup techniques!) that has found its way to the average consumer. Everyone should of course wear and do whatever they want to their faces but needing to paint a brown U around our noses before leaving the house in the morning to be on trend and look good is pure bullshit. Period. Because of all this I’m happy when I see contouring palettes like the one I’m going to show you right now.

 

isadora face sculptor nude

IsaDora Face Sculptor Nude is so slim and the products are easy to decode.

IsaDora Face Sculptor Nude är en ny variant av IsaDoras tidigare mer rougefokuserade kindpaletter, denna gång i tre nyanser av mjukt beige. Face Sculptor-paletterna är ett slimmat litet kit som ska vara allt du behöver för kindmakeupen, här med ett matt contouringpuder att framhäva skuggor i ansiktet med, en matt bronzer för att värma upp huden och en mild highlighter med lätt lyster. Helt klart riktad mot de ljusaste av hudtoner (vithetsnormen inom nude-konceptet kan påpekas i evighet) så för oss som har svårt för att hitta sculptingprodukter som är ljusa/ickeorange nog så är detta guld värt. Kom igen IsaDora, släpp en mörkare också för detta är BRA grejer! Ute i butik nu, kostar 199 kr (skippa borsten som också lanserats, du kan hitta mycket bättre för samma peng).

IsaDora Face Sculptor Nude is a new addition to IsaDoras already existing but more blush focused cheek palettes, this time with three shades of soft beige. The Face Sculptor palettes are slim kits that should be everything you need for your cheek makeup, here with a matte contouring powder to enhance the shadows of the face, a matte bronzer to warm up the skin and a mild highlighter with a soft sheen. Definitely aimed towards the lightest of skintones (I could talk about the white norm within the nude concept forever) so for us who have a problem finding sculpting products that are light/non orange enough this is wonderful. Come on IsaDora, release a darker one too because this is GOOD stuff! In stores now (skip the brush that was also released, you can find much better for the same sum of money).

isadora face sculptor nude

I love how you don’t get any excess packaging with this format, this is just exactly what you need an nothing else. No stupid brushes, extra compartments or whatever. Love it!

The contouring powder is an ashy beige with a rosy tint, perrrrfect for contouring fair skin as it doesn’t make the skin look dead.

The bronzer is a bit warmer in tone but when the bronzer is dusted on top of the contour it only gives a soft warmth, not even sunkissed looking. Great shade.

The highlighter at the bottom is a pale beige with a little bit of glow. It’s great to have a highlighter that doesn’t look whitened and frosted, but I wish this one was just a taaaad creamier in texture, now I need to pack it on a bit. Looks pretty when it’s on though!

isadora face sculptor nude swatches

Contour, bronzer, highlighter. As you can see none of them are deadly greyish, but the contouring is definitely cool toned and ashy. I can’t stress enough how perfect this shade is for contouring fair skin, holy jebus! Also the textures are very thin and smooth, see how they don’t look chalky at all?

Now, let’s see what it does to my face!

isadora face sculptor nude

Step 1: My regular everyday foundation + concealer + powder.

isadora face sculptor nude

Step 2: Contour. Applied with the quite stiff and precise Real Techniques Cheek Brush (Nic’s Picks set exclusive) to the lower part of my cheekbone sweeping forward, on my temples sweeping up towards the hairline and in my eye sockets. I keep away from the center of the face (nose/lip/chin contouring), those areas capture too much light so a brown shadow on the nose for example would stand out and look dirty unless you’re in perfect lighting allllll day. And honestly, who is?

isadora face sculptor nude

Step 3: Bronzer. Applied with the large fluffy Real Techniques Blush Brush. Dusted on the entire “light” part of the cheek so on top and above of the cheek contour. A good dusting on the temples and what is left goes on the nose, forehead and chin because that’s where the sun would naturally hit.

isadora face sculptor nude

Step 4: Highlighter. Applied with Everyday Minerals Itahake Brush. Basically everywhere I applied bronzer, but more on the exact high points. So top of the cheekbone, browbone, temple right above the brow, bridge of the nose and upper lip. This highlighter is very subtle so you won’t be able to overdo it.

isadora face sculptor nude

Step 5: A ton of face mist on top. I’m a bit too dry to wear this much powder on my face without rehydrating afterwards, so this is the final step that ties my face together and gives it a nice dimensional finish! A very mild effect but this is exactly what a user friendly contouring palette should be!

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Recension, Skönhet

Video tutorial: Luminous skin

Can you believe it? I’m back on YouTube!

Viola, Killer Colours

Skönhet

What shade of red lipstick suits me? – The Killer Colours red lipstick guide

Det evigt återkommande problemet – vilket av alla röda läppstift i sminkdisken kommer se bra ut på mina läppar? Här är de grundläggande tipsen jag skulle ge dig inför sökandet efter det perfekta röda stiftet.

 

Hitta undertonen i din hud

Utan att veta undertonen i din hud, varm, neutral eller kall, är det svårt att hitta den färg som verkligen framhäver din hy. Det finns flera sätt att få reda på din hudton, bästa skulle jag säga är att rakt upp och ner fråga en kunnig makeupartist i butik. Annars kan du testa följande:

Gå till en butik och prova tre foundations på käklinjen, varje i en tydlig nyans av de tre undertonerna, och se vilken som harmoniserar med din hy. Kalla nyanser ser ofta grå ut på neutral/varm hy medan varma nyanser ser gula ut på kall hy.

Kolla i din garderob, klär du bäst i varmt orange, kallt ljusrosa eller båda? Den nyans du klär bäst i är troligen din underton i hyn, eller om båda går vägen är du troligen neutral.

Fundera lite på oddsen, de allra flesta har en varm eller neutral underton i hyn, är du inte riktigt blek och/eller rödlätt så har du troligen inte en kall underton.

Vill du skita totalt i detta sökande efter hudens underton? Hitta ett neutralt rött läppstift utan varken varma eller kalla undertoner, trots att det kanske inte är din perfect match kommer det garanterat inte skära sig mot din hudton.

 

Rätt läppstift för önskad effekt

Vill du ha ett läppstift som går i mjuk harmoni med din hy eller go wild med ett som skapar sprakande kontrast?

En varm hy passar av naturen i ett varmt orangetonat läppstift, men samtidigt kan kallt plommonrött tack vare kontrasten framhäva hyns undertoner och ge en dramatisk effekt.

Samma poäng med kall hy, ett kallt rosenrött stift ser i regel mest harmoniskt ut medan ett orangerött kan ge en uppiggande kontrast.

En neutral hy har varken en starkt gul eller rosa underton, därav kan den neutrala hyn oftast komma undan med båda undertoner som naturliga. Harmoniserar i regel bäst med en neutral röd nyans.

I regel framhäver en stark färg en medium/mörk hy, en dammig mjuk nyans kan se grå ut mot hyn och istället kan en riktigt färgstark nyans se mjuk och naturlig ut. Den ljusa hyn kan tvärtom framhävas av de milda nyanserna men överröstas och se grå ut av en för stark läppfärg. Detta är dock inte alls regler, du kan få vilken färgstyrka som helst att se bra ut bara du själv trivs i den.

red lipstick swatch

1-6 are warm toned, 7-10 are neutral toned and 11-16 are cool toned reds. Click here to see all the names.

 

The never ending problem – which one of all the red lipsticks at the makeup counter will look good on my lips? Here are my basic tips for your next search for the perfect red lipstick.

 

Find the undertone of your skin

Without knowing the undertone in your skin, warm, neutral or cool, it’s hard to find the colour that really brings out your complextion. There are many ways to find out your undertone, the best thing according to me is just to ask a makeup artist at any quality counter. Otherwise you could try these tricks:

Go to a store and try three foundations on your jawline, everyone in a clear tone of the three undertones, and see which one harmonizes with your skin. Cool tones tend to look ashy on neutral/warm skin, while warm tones look yellow on cool toned skin.

Take a look at your wardrobe, do you look best dressed in warm orange, cool light pink or both? The shade that works the best is probably your undertone, and if both works you might be neutral toned.

Think about the odds, most people have a warm or neutral undertone in their skin, if you aren’t really pale and/or have a reddish tone in your hair you probably aren’t cool toned.

If you don’t give a crap about finding your undertone you can go out and find a neutral red lipstick with no warm or cool undertones, even though it might not be your perfect match it’s still won’t look bad with any skintone.

 

The right lipstick for your preferred effect

Do you want a lipstick that creates a soft harmony with your complexion  or do you want to go wild with something that creates a sparkling contrast?

A warm skin naturally works with a warm orange toned lipstick, but at the same time a cool plummy red can bring out the undertones in the skin and create a dramatic effect thanks to the contrast.

Same idea with cool toned skin, a cool rosy red lipstick often looks the most natural while an orange red can give a brightening contrast.

A neutral skin doesn’t have a strong yellow or pink undertone, that means the neutral skin can get away with both undertones and still look natural. It often harmonizes the best with a neutral red.

Overall a strong colour enhances medium/dark skin, a dusty soft shade can look grey against the skin and instead the really bright one looks soft and natural. Light skin can on the other hand get enhanced by mild shades but the brights can get overwhelming. These are far from rules though, as long as you feel good in your lipstick you can make most colour strengths work.

Viola, Killer Colours

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My current quick base routine

I’m totally into this base routine right now! It’s done quickly and it looks natural, flawless and dewy at the same time.

1. Sleek MakeUP Be Beautiful Blemish Balm – Fair
Applied with hands or a brush, the brush gives a little more coverage.

2. GloMinerals Pressed Base – Natural-Fair
Dusted very softly on top with a fluffy face brush.

3. Illamasqua Powder Blusher Lover
Applied on cheeks and temple, a wonderful pale orange blush with a hint of pink in it.

4. Any face mist (or water in a spray bottle)
Spray on top to get rid of the powdery feeling, the GloMinerals Pressed Base comes to life with some moisture on top.

 

quick base

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Skönhet

Video tutorial: 5 minute neutral crease look

Here’s a video tutorial of the eye makeup style that I’ve worn in my recent makeup looks, a soft angled crease and some shimmer on the lid. Yay!

 

 

On my nails:
Color Club – Sparkle and Soar

Products used:
Milani Shadow Eyez 12HR Wear Eyeshadow Pencil – Sand Dunes
NYX Blush – Taupe
Oriflame Beauty Eyebrow Kit (as eyeshadows)
Idun Minerals Inliner – Sand
IsaDora All Day Long Lash Mascara

tutorial

Viola, Killer Colours
Killer Colours

Contact me:
killercolours@gmail.com

Blog info:
Glossy claws, purrty lips, serious eyebrows and a passion for beauty with brains. Beauty blogger and MUA from Gothenburg, Sweden.

My name is Viola Holmgren and I've been representing Swedish beauty bloggerism (yes. we're a cult) since 2008. I focus on cruelty free beauty and I love the feeling of finding cool products that have gone under the radar.

Makeup doesn't have rules. The only person who decides what's right or wrong and if you're wearing it or not is you, and that's where my job as a blogger comes in handy. Use my experience as a guide or an inspiration towards finding your own way.

And just to clarify, all reviews and opinions are my own, there is no evil baby demon on my left shoulder who is bribing, forcing or possessing me to write. Reviews are best written in honesty!